Cycling Country’s Building Renovation – Discovering the Past

Read time: 10 min

A​ndalucía’s Glowing White Villages

Dazzling white villages under a deep cobalt sky—this is the iconic image of Andalucía. The homes, farmhouses (cortijos), and towns here are coated in a bright white plaster helping to reflect the powerful Andalucian sun. This ancient building tradition, dating back to the Phoenicians, was used to make homes cooler in the scorching summer heat. Indeed, the intense white reflects the sun’s rays, helping to keep interiors at a lower temperature.

Moorish Influence on Building Practices

During the period of Al-Andalus (from the 700s to 1492), the Moors ruled much of southern Spain and their influence on architecture is still evident today. Subsequently, it was the Moors who further developed the practice of whitewashing, using lime (cal), a natural mineral here to coat entire towns in Andalucía. The technique not only regulated the inside climate but also created a unity between the Islamic villages.

Today’s Plaster Facades Continue the Tradition

Our headquarters reflect this method, and the plaster facade of homes in Alhama de Granada’s are all painted in muted light lemons to dazzling whites due to this heritage. Undoubtedly, it makes for a picturesque and Instagrammable landscape.

Additionally to the bright white plaster, the narrow, twisting alleys found in many Andalucian villages were a clever design for both sun protection and defense.  Certainly, these winding streets were strategically built to make it more difficult for invading forces to navigate. Therefore, creating a safer environment for residents and one they could more easily defend.

Cycling Country’s Reno removes this plaster

Keeping all of that in mind, it wasn’t without some trepidation, that upon, planning to renovate our workshop premises, we decided to strip off this plaster from our base and see what was under it.

The Practice of Whitewashing Andalucian Homes

Cycling Country’s workshop is in a building that has all the elements of a traditional 19th and 20th century Andalucian village style. Windows guarded with wrought iron (rejas),  wooden shutters (postigos) and of course an outer wooden blind (persiana). In addition, the blind could be also be made with esparto fibre grasses, to be dampened with cold water and when the wind blows, they become traditional “air-conditioners”! The fitting touch of course, is the building is in a blinding white, which on the lower floor, we were about to peel back.

Andalucian Whitewash Benefits

In the past, the whitewash used to coat Andalucian buildings was made by artisans called caleros. They crafted a mixture of slaked lime.  Believed to act as both an insect repellent and a powerful disinfectant, it was painted on. In times of epidemics, such as plague, whitewashing homes was a common practice in an attempt to curb the spread of disease. This method was, and still is, commonly used in barns and stables worldwide as a way of maintaining cleanliness.

Buying Whitewash for your home

In fact, it was only 15 years ago that every Friday a van would roam Alhama’s streets calling out “Cal y Carbon“, in its door to door delivery. Cal to paint your home and carbon to warm it with the traditional under-the-table platter full of hot coals (brasero).  Lighting the carbon coals under the table, and then covering the table with a large cloth, nicely warms your legs in Alhama’s cooler winters, and usually burns off all the rubber on your shoes!

Today, most cal is produced industrially, and the centuries-old artisan practice is in danger of disappearing. However, some regions near Sevilla, still celebrate this tradition. At the Museo de Cal de Morón, a UNESCO-recognized heritage site, visitors can explore 19th-century lime kilns and even take courses on learning traditional building methods.

Charming Pueblos Blancos: Andalucía’s White Villages

This architectural tradition has lead to one of the most iconic symbols of this area,  Andalucía’s Pueblos Blancos (White Villages). These charming towns, nestled in the rolling hills of the Sierras, greet visitors with their glowing white facades and narrow streets. A visit to these villages feels like stepping back in time, to a simpler era without modern apps and email annoyances.

The true Pueblos Blancos are primarily found near Ronda in the Málaga/Cádiz region, an area known for its hilly countryside. These villages are especially captivating in the morning light, offering a picturesque view of the region’s traditional architecture. You can experience this first-hand on our White Villages Self-Guided Cycling Trip, where you’ll cycle through the stunning landscapes and quaint villages that define this region.

​Traditional Andalucian Building Materials

Excitingly, when our whitewash plaster was stripped away, we could easily see that the traditional construction materials used reflected the region’s natural environment. In Alhama de Granada, buildings were primarily constructed using the area’s materials. The foundation of these homes was made from local limestone, while stones from the river Alhama, and mud and clay mixed with straw were used to create thick adobe walls. This technique was commonly employed in rural areas, where resources like wood were less abundant.

Spain’s gorgeous clay roof tiles

Roof tiles, also made from local barro (thick clay) are another iconic and romantic feature of all Andalucian homes, including Cycling Country’s.  Adding to the region’s distinctive architectural style, these tiles were made and fired in nearby kilns.  Structurally,  the ceilings often feature beams made from pine or oak, with some higher-end homes incorporating wood like walnut. Originally, the plaster coating the walls was adhered to a layer of reeds from the nearby river beds, a clever way of ensuring durability and strength. When the office ceiling was re-plastered, the workman doing the plastering still used this technique!

Continuing our work in restoring this building reminds us of the marks left by past generations—like the tiny stone mason’s cross etched into the corner of the building (see photo). They are not only a testament to their skill but also their enduring presence. Often stone mason’s would carve their initials or tags into their works as a way of owning their workmanship but also a sign to get paid! Worker’s initials are found on many monuments, such as the Mezquita in Córdoba. And so their work lives on, and in uncovering these layers it connects us with the past and honours the artisanship that has shaped the Andalucía we know today.

A Look Back, and Ahead

Cycling Country’s headquarters now stands as a living piece of history, blending the old and new. Into 2025 and beyond, we’re not only preserving the beauty of Andalucía’s architectural heritage but also contributing to the ongoing story of this remarkable region.

Whether you’re cycling through the White Villages or visiting the historic centre of Alhama de Granada, every stone of Andalucía tells a story waiting to be uncovered.